Shoe.



UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE..-

ADAM H. PRENZEL, OF HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOEMACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE.

Specification of Letters P: ,tent.

Patented Leb. zu, 1:117.

Original application file'd May 21, 1913, Serial No. 768,975. Patent No.1,159,084, dated November 2, 1915.

, Divided and this application filed September 15, 1914. Serial No.861,822.

1 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that "I, ADAM H. PKENZEL, acitizen. of the United States, residing at lll alitax, in the county ofDauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain In'iprovementsin Shoes, ofwhich the followingdescription, 111 connectlon with theaccompanying drawings, is a spec1fication, like reference characters onthe drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to shoes and partic'ularly to shoes havingoutturned uppers and commonly referred to as stitch-down shoes j AnObject of this invention is to produce a stitch-down shoe in which thebest materials may be utilizedwithout so increasing the cost of the shoeas to make it unprofitable to manufacture.

In the manufacture of stitch-down shoes little attention has been paid,up to the present time, to the fitof these shoes, to so constructing theshoes that they will maintain their shape as they are worn and to somaking the shoes that; they can be resoled withoutrelasting. One-of thereasons why so little attention has been paid to the fit of these shoesis that until grecently it has been almost impossible to conform astitch-down upper to the last and to keep it conformed to the last untilthe ontsole is attached. It

"has therefore only been profitable to make on my copending applicationsthese shoes the cheaper grades and of such poor materials in most casesthat there has been little occasion for having the shoes "repaired,since the shoe "as a whole has been in such shape by the time the solehas become worn that it has not been worth repairing. By the improvedlasting process disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,117,086,granted November 10, 1914:, on my co-pcnding application Serial No.725,476, filed Oct. 12, 19-12,'and by the ma chine for performing thislasting process disclosed-in United States Letters Patent No. 1,117,087,granted November 10, 1914, and No. 1,117,440, granted November 17, 1914,Serial 725,477 and 736,079, filed respectively, Oct. 12, 1912, and Dec.11, 1 912, the pr'oblem'of lasting stitch-down shoes has been so successfully solved that it has now become both feasible and profitable tomanufacture these shoes of better .materialsand for the better 'tnl'ednot only in childrens sizes but which is especially adapted for boys and'mens work and which is of-such neat appearance that it can also bemanufactured for the misses and womens trade.

lhe preferred method of making the shoe constiti. ting the presentinvention is fully disclosed and described in my co-pending applicationupon Which United States Let tors Pa :ent No. 1,159,084 were grantedNovember 2, 1915, of which the present application is a division. 9

Other objects and imported features of the invention will appear fromthe following (16% :ription' and claims when considered in connectionwith the. accompanying drawings in Which,

. iguie 1 is a perspective view of the extension insole employedin themanufacture of the improved shoe bythe improved proo- .inthe completedshoe.

In preparin the extension insole 2, which,

is chani'eled in such manner that a welt strip 6 is separated from thesole with the grain si ie up and that an undercut channel 8 is formed,leaving achannel lip or shoulder .90 is shown in l ig;,l, a sole of theoutline and size of he, outsole'4to be used in'the shoe 10 formed toprovide a crease or'igroovc 8 between the undercut shoulder and theetension adge of the insole. This channeling operation preferably extendsfrom .a point '12 at the front of the heel-seat part of the sole aroundthe sole to a second point 14 where tie channeling knife is withdrawn,

leaving the welt strip 6 attached to the sole at this end. After thechanneling operation that part 16 of the heel-seat end of the sole whichlies within the channeled portion and above the plane of the surfacefrom which placed upon the bottom edge, of

the weltstriphas been removed is separated from the sole by a splittingmachine, or other suitablemeans, as. far forward as the f ont end of theheel seat, to form a tongue edge of-sald insole and said integral weltover which the heel end of the upper may The ext ,i sion 1 insole,having been preparedin the manner shown in Fig. 1, is

the'raised central portion 18 of the insole has its edge substantiallyflush with the the last, or extending slightly beyond the edge butcentered upon said last, and the upper when placed upon the last isdrawn down and the angle of the upper is forced'into the channel orgroove 8, thus turnin the lip 10 up or forcin it s1 e-or bottom faceofthe ast v as far backas possible into the channel or 'grove 8 andiss'eculfed in a'fastening, preferabl a the] insole 2 and clenched uponthe bottom this position by staple 22 driven throught'the upper in, t isangle and through of the insole.-

' described, the outsole The shoe'having' been lasted-in. the mannerinsole, the .welt;-6 is laid upon the outturned edge of the-upper, andthe welt, upper, ex-

' tension edgeof united by stitches 26.

the foot I 'insole and also to provide a filler for the space inside ofthe insole,

the insole and outsole are In order toprovide proper insulation for andto provide a cushion for the the depressed extension edge '20 a fillingpiece 28 is preferably interposed between the insole and outsolesecured'by Letters '55 before the outsole stitching operation, thisfilling piece being formed of felt, felt paper or any other suitahle'filling or cushioning material.

The lasting operation hereinabove, described may conveniently beperformed with the staple lasting machine shown and described in myco-pending application Serial No. 7 36,079, filed Dec. 11, 1912, uponwhich United States Letters Patent No. 1,117,440

were granted November 17, 1914:.

Having thus' described the invention, What is claimed as new and desiredto be States is r v 1. A shoe, vomprising IIL COIIIbIHBJtIOD an upper,an ins le having an extension edge "an integral welt,- a shoulder shapedto lie within and support he upper upon the inside'of the shoe and anintegral "tongue over last in such position that manentlp to saidinsole, ing located in the angl" of the upper and 'under the overhanging4 is. placed upon the support the upper securing said upper tosaid-insole,

Patent of the United which the heel end of the upper is lasted in,

having an extenslon edge and an integral welt, and having within saidextension edge anunde'rcut shoulder "shaped to lie within and supportthe upper on the inside of the shoe, said upper having" an outturnedmar? gin lying upon said insole, fastenings securing said upper persaidfastenings beshoulder of the insole, and an outsole secured to saidwelt, upper and insole.

3. A stitch-down shoe comprising an upper, an insole having an extensionedge and an upper supporting shoulder within said extension edgeundercut to provide a crease or groove between said shoulder and saidextension edge said upper being outturned upon said ex 'ension edge ofsa1d-in sole,'staples permanently securing said u'pper to said insole insaid crease'or groove, said staples being inserted through the angle ofthe upper and through ,the insole and clenched upon the bottom face ofthe insole, a Welt laid upon said outturnedportion of the upper, and anoutsole secured to said welt, upper and extension edge of the insole.-

4. A stitch-down shoe comprising an insole having an extension] edge andan 1nextension edge of the tegral welt and having within said extensionedge a shoulder shape'dto lie within and upon the inside of the shoe, anupper having its heel end lasted in over a portion of the heel end ofthe insole, said upper being outturnedupon the extension edge of saidinsole, staples permanentlg staples beinginserted through the upper inthe angle formed-by outturnlng and through tom -face of the insole,

Welt, the. outturned upper, extension edge of said insoleandsaidToutsole;

In testimony whereof-I have signed my name to this specification inthepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

' ADAM H.,PRENZEL. Witnesses: 1 j

R L. W. RY/AN,

G. W. finumz,

he insole and being clenched upon-the botan outsole', and fastenlingssecuring together the-integral-

